Top 5 recommended models for beginners to antique watches!
It's a moon phase.
This time, we will introduce recommended models for beginners of antique watches (vintage watches) in ranking format.
If you are thinking "I'm going to buy an antique clock!" or "I'm interested, but it's hard to get into it...", I hope you'll read it.
What is an antique clock (vintage clock)?
First, let me explain about antique clocks.
Antique clocks are many shops in the clock industry that refer to clocks up to the 1970s as antique clocks.
There are various names for watches from the 1980s onwards, such as post-vintage and neo-vintage.
In addition, vintage watches and antique watches are treated as almost the same meaning, and the way they are called varies depending on the shop.
Please be assured that our company can convey both antique and vintage items.
(We will unify the antique clock notation below.)
Originally, antique is a word used for things that are over 100 years old, but in the case of watches, strangely enough, even if they are not 100 years old, they are included in the antique category.
What are the characteristics of antiques?
Antique clocks have some parts that are very different from current products.
This is one of the pleasures of antiques, but it can also be a weak point, so it is better to check it before purchasing.
Original and redone (restoration)
Oyster's Oyster RALEIGH Ref.3478
Original dial from the 1930s
First, let's talk about the dial.
Antique clock faces include original dials that maintain their original state and those that have undergone restoration called redone.
Redan dials are rare in current products, but they are common in antiques.
Considering the age, it's a part that can't be helped, but there's a big difference between buying without knowing and buying after knowing!
There are various redundancies, such as subtly different typefaces and colors that do not exist originally.
Most Redan items are cheaper than the originals, so if you don't want the value as an antique and want to use it as a fashion item, please consult with your budget and purchase a Redan item. Sometimes it's better.
In the case of our company, most of our products are listed on the product detail page, so please refer to that for your consideration.
※It will be likened to our exclusive buyer.
Some antique clocks have a calendar function.
The big difference from current products is that most models do not have a quick date change function (a function to change only the date).
Therefore, the only way to change the date is to keep turning the hands.
ROLEX Datejust Ref.6605
There is a date display at the 3 o'clock position, but there is no quick change function.
If you want to advance the date by 1 or 2 days, you can do it immediately, but if you have to advance by 20 days, we have received feedback that it is quite difficult. (The date should basically only be moved forward.)
Therefore, if you have more than one, some customers ask for a model without a date.
It is convenient to have a date display, but there are also unexpected pitfalls, so please try the actual operation at the store before purchasing, and you will be able to make a better purchase. I think so.
I think that the antiqueness can be felt from various parts such as the case and dial, but the windshield is also one of the factors.
In fact, most antique windshields (the transparent part attached to the top of the dial) are made of plastic, which is a big difference from current products.
Many current luxury watches use sapphire crystal, and the edges (angles of the corners) are quite effective, and the brilliance is stronger.
ROLEX Submariner Ref.5513
The windshield has a unique roundness. This is one of the characteristics of the plastic windshield
I think there are some people who feel a little cheap when they hear the word plastic.
Of course, compared to sapphire crystal, the strength is lower, but with plastic, even if it gets scratched, it can be polished!
Of course, it depends on the condition of the scratch, but if it is a small dent, it can be easily removed.
Even in the unlikely event that it cracks, it can be replaced, and the labor cost is considerably cheaper than the current product. (Because it is difficult to provide information on original windshields and genuine windshields, we basically deal with separate products and generic products.)
Since the above are the characteristics of antiques, we will introduce recommended models based on these.
No. 5: Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date Series
ROLEX Oyster Perpetual Date Ref.1500
First is the 5th place, Rolex's Oyster Perpetual Date series.
As a series, it is a popular model that continues even now, and the first Ref.1500 is said to be around the 1960s.
The functions are Rolex's proud oyster case, self-winding function called perpetual function, and date display.
It's a function that feels very simple now, but at the time it was a very epoch-making watch and gained popularity.
The reason why we recommend it is that you can use it with a feeling of use that is relatively close to the current product.
In fact, the automatic winding function is in a small number of antique watches, and most products are hand-wound.
If you are accustomed to wristwatches, even if it is hand-wound, you can use it without any particular concerns, but for beginners, it is very easy to use just because it is self-winding.
In addition, there are many types of dials, so it is easy to find your favorite design.
It is difficult to adjust the date, but it is relatively difficult to stop because it is self-winding, and there is also an Oyster Perpetual (without date) with a different part number, so you can choose according to your preference.
ROLEX Oyster Perpetual Date Ref.1500
Not only the color of the dial, but also the shape of the indexes and hands
The case size is 34mm, and you can choose the price range from about 300,000 yen.
No. 4: Tudor/Tudor Oyster Series
In fourth place is the Tudor/Tudor Oyster series.
(At that time, it was often called Tudor, but now it is officially called Tudor, but I will use the name Tudor in this article.)
TUDOR Oyster Ref.7903
When most people think of Oyster, they think of Rolex.
At that time, Tudor was a Rolex diffusion brand.
For that reason, most of the exterior parts were made by Rolex, and there were many parts with the crown mark.
TUDOR Oyster Ref.7903
The crown has a crown mark because it uses Rolex parts.
By using the internal machine as a general-purpose movement, we aim to keep costs down and offer it at a lower price than Rolex, and this trend can be seen even in antiques.
A good point about Tudor antiques is the general-purpose movement mentioned earlier.
What I mean by general purpose is that there is a lot of distribution of parts.
In antique watches, the more complex the internal machinery, the less parts are available, and the more difficult it is to repair in the event of an emergency.
However, in the case of Tudor, the movement used is general-purpose, so parts can be obtained relatively easily and repairs can be done cheaply.
Of course, parts such as dials are one-of-a-kind items, so you can't replace them with the same item, but even with that, I think it's a great advantage as an antique for everyday use.
3rd place: IWC Old Inter (Schaffhausen) series
Third place is the Old Inter (Schaffhausen) series from IWC.
IWC Old Inter (Schaffhausen)
This model has a very simple structure and is an orthodox dress watch antique.
The solid gold model is especially recommended in this series.
When it comes to solid gold dress watches, Patek Philippe's Calatrava comes first, but most of them are very expensive in terms of price.
However, this IWC Old Inter is a model that can be purchased for around 300,000 yen even if it is solid gold.
Most of the current solid gold dress watches are very expensive, and there are many customers who have given up on the budget due to budget constraints.
However, with the IWC Old Inter, you can get it at a low price and the design is excellent, so I think you will be satisfied.
No. 2: Rolex Datejust Series
It's finally the second place.
The recommended model is the Datejust series from Rolex.
ROLEX Datejust Ref.1601
There are various product numbers, but the most recommended ones are 1601 and 1603.
It is okay if you think that the above two are mainly the difference in the material of the bezel.
The 1603 has a stainless steel bezel, and the 1601 has a white gold bezel.
ROLEX Datejust Ref.1603
It doesn't look much different from the 1601, but the 1603 has a stainless steel bezel.
The size is 36mm, which is the same size as the current product, and the design base is the same as the current product.
Although it has such an excellent design, it has the goodness unique to antiques, so we ranked it second.
The current Datejust has many parts called a polished finish (mirror finish), giving it a rather dressy impression, but the antique Datejust has many parts called a hairline finish (matte line finish), so it looks smooth. It has a casual and easy-to-use design, and it is just right to give you a sense of familiarity.
In addition, the thickness and weight of the case are different, and the feeling of wearing is different from the current product.
Even at our company, it is a model that sells overwhelmingly among antiques, and when a slightly unusual dial comes in, it often goes on sale.
Since it is such a standard model, if you are hesitant about choosing an antique watch, we recommend that you try on a Datejust once.
The price range will be a little higher than the products up to the 3rd place, but you can still buy it cheaply compared to the current product.
In recent years, the price has been on the rise, so if you are looking for it, hurry up!
No. 1: Rolex Oyster Series
Number one is the Rolex Oyster series.
ROLEX Oyster Ref.6426
This series is a hand-wound watch and is currently out of production.
As a successor, the Oyster Perpetual series (self-winding) has been released.
The charm of this place is that it is a versatile individual.
There are points such as the hand-wound feel unique to antique watches, the ease of setting the time because there is no date, and the ease of use regardless of the season because there are many individual bracelets.
In addition, there are many types of dials, both original and redone, and the price is cheaper than the Datejust and Oyster Perpetual Date.
The basic case size is 34mm, which is slightly smaller than the Datejust. (For men's)
It is also a good point that you can easily enjoy the size and warmth of an antique clock.
What did you think.
If you are unsure, I think it would be a good idea to consider Datejust or Oyster once, and then go from there to your liking.
MOON PHASE offers a wide variety of antique clocks, and you can compare them with current products.
In addition to the models introduced , you can check the inventory list of antiques here , so if you have any items you are interested in, please visit the store when you have time.